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Canadair CL-215 Water
Bomber
by Andrew Curless
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Motor Nacelle
In constructing the motor nacelle start by constructing
the ply wood motor pod. When built ,fit into the wing in between W2A
making sure to fit the 1/2" balsa spacer underneath EB, remember to
draw your throttle linkages through the motor pod as your fit it into
position. Then with your ruler mark the centre lines of the nacelle onto
the wing and taking measurements from the plan glue formers E3 to E6 into
position. Now fit the tank hatch onto motor pod and glue in formers E1 to
E3A. Sand and fit E7 and two E8s into position to give the construction
rigidity and ready it for sheeting with 3mm balsa. With this done sand
nacelles to final shape for sheeting with balsa. My next step was to sheet
the nacelles starting at the wings at E8 on both sides working to the top
centre at E7 using 20-25mm strips of balsa. While time consuming it was
the best method to achieve the best contours. Next make up the rear balsa
blocks out of 12mm balsa and glue into position then sand to shape the
entire nacelle and cut out the tank hatch. Now refit the hatch with pins
and screws to lock in position for service to the tank bay.
Cowls
The plan shows a built up engine cowl manufactured from
3mm balsa wood. Assembly the cowl rings with 61/2 mm spacers then edge
glue 3mm planking, (cut to the length of the cowl jig), and paint with
cloudy ammonia and wrap around the cowl jig and hold in place with rubber
bands until dry. This process ends with a rounded pre-shaped planking
which can be trimmed and glued into position easily. Build up two layers
of 3mm planking on the interior front of the cowl and one 3mm layer on the
rear exterior. When dry the cowl can be sanded to shape and fibre-glassed
or finished as you require. Finally fit cowl to nacelle, sanding as
required to achieve a good fit. I mounted mine with four small hardwood
blocks.
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Pontoons
The Pontoons are carved out off dense grade
polystyrene, I started by cutting rectangular foam blocks to the
correct size, then made paper templates to mark out the approximate
shape then carved out the shapes with a new stanley knife blade. |
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When happy with the shape complete with a final sand with 400
"wet and dry". Shape pontoon arm P into a streamline
profile and then recess into pontoon. I then used 3/4 ounce glass
cloth and epoxy resin to seal the foam and recessed the pontoon arm
P into the underside of the wing.
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Tail Section
Tailplane and Elevator
The tailplane and elevator can be built directly
on the plan, (on a flat surface), in one piece from the tailplane
rear spar to the elevator front spar and split into two pieces on
completion. The split elevators were also constructed in one piece
then separated after the wire joiner was fitted.
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Pin down the centre
section and spars and cut and fit the frame ribs and glue into
position. Fit balsa tips and then unpin from building board and sand
flat. Now make up 1.5mm balsa sheeting and sheet top and bottom of
tailplane and elevator construction. Sand back to shape, mark and
cut off elevator from the tailplane, sand leading edge of elevator
to allow for hinge movement and fit 21/2 mm elevator joiner wire.
When dry, cut out centre section of elevator to allow for rudder
movement. Hinge the elevator off the tailplane and put aside.
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Fin and Rudder
The fin and rudder are constructed in two
symmetrical halves. Build up one side over the plan. When completed,
lift off plan and reverse and construct the second side on top of
the first. Fit reinforcement gussets FN and R1 and carefully sand FP
and ribs to the required profile. (Note that R3A is not fitted until
tailplane is fitted into the fin). |
Fit the 11/2 mm balsa sheet skin
between R1 and R3 on the fin and complete the skin on the rudder
making up the balsa tip blocks to suit. Put aside until final
construction and fit out on the fuselage to facilitate alignment of
flying surfaces. Completion of balsa skin from R3a to R6 is
completed later.
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